Every person who loves ancient Indian temple architecture must visit the Kopeshwar Temple near Kolhapur. Nestled on the quiet banks of the Krishna River, right on the Maharashtra-Karnataka border, this 12th-century marvel is gifted to us by the Shilahara dynasty. It stands as a breathtaking reminder of India’s rich sculptural and architectural heritage.
Despite being located in a remote village, often forgotten by many, the Kopeshwar temple stands strong, full of mystery and stories carved into stone. The name Kopeshwara translates to ‘the wrathful God’. The Kopeshwar temple is dedicated to the fierce and angry form of God Shiva. But why is God Shiva worshipped in this unusual form here? There’s a mythological story behind this name, and I’ll be sharing it in this post.
The most notable and Instagram-viral part of the Kopeshwar temple is the Swarga Mandap. I saw some photographs of this beautifully carved open-air ceiling and immediately decided to visit this temple. But when I reached the Kopeshwar temple, I realised that it is much more than just the Swarga Mandap. Every stone in this temple has something to say. The Kopeshwar temple in Khidrapur village is not just any ordinary temple – it is a place to decipher the ancient stories carved into stone. I went there just to see the Swarga Mandap, but I found an entire world of ancient wisdom and craftsmanship waiting for me.
History of Kopeshwar Temple
In the 7th century, the Chalukya dynasty laid down the first foundation of the Kopeshwar temple. But the construction was interrupted due to conflicts with other dynasties in this region. The temple later flourished during the 12th century under the Shilahara king, Gandaraditya, who oversaw the majority of its construction. During the 12th and 13th centuries, it was further renovated by the Yadava king, Singhana II. This is recorded in the inscriptions carved near the temple’s southern entrance. The Khidrapur village was once known as ‘Koppam.’ It was also the site of major battles between dynasties like the Chalukyas, Cholas, Shilaharas, and Yadavas, turning it into a politically significant region.
Unfortunately, the Kopeshwar temple suffered considerable damage under attacks by Muslim invaders, particularly Aurangzeb. Many of the sculptures, especially the faces of deities and the trunks of 92 out of 96 elephants carved in the Gajapatta at the temple’s base, were deliberately mutilated. Despite such heinous destruction, the Kopeshwar temple has stood the test of time and remains one of Maharashtra’s most awe-inspiring examples of ancient temple architecture. It is now under the protection and care of the Archaeological Survey of India.
Do you like visiting ancient Shiva temples? Check my guide, 108 Shiva temples in Pune, for more such journeys.
Mythological story of Kopeshwar Temple
The origins of the Kopeshwar Temple are rooted in the most dramatic and emotional story from the Hindu mythology. King Daksha was hosting the greatest Yajna of all time. He purposely did not invite his daughter Sati and God Shiva to the Yajna ritual, because he hated the ascetic God Shiva. Even though uninvited, Sati still courageously rode to her father’s place on the Nandi. But upon her arrival, she wasn’t welcomed. King Daksha insulted God Shiva in front of all the guests, and this greatly humiliated Sati. She realised her mistake, that she shouldn’t have visited the place where she wasn’t invited. In her anguish (and for her purification), she jumped into the Yajna fire and immolated herself.
God Shiva was enraged by the death of his wife and thus emerged in his angry form – Kopeshwara or the wrathful God. He ordered King Daksha to be killed, the Yajna to be ended, and then nearly proceeded to destroy the cosmos in his anger. So, God Vishnu intervened to pacify Kopeshwara (the fierce form of God Shiva). He took the form of a Linga named Dhopeshwara and appeared beside God Shiva in this temple.
- Twin Lingas: The Garbhagriha (inner sanctum) of this temple houses two lingas: the ‘Kopeshwar’ Shiva lingam and the ‘Dhopeshwar’ Vishnu lingam. This is perhaps the only temple in India where you can find God Vishnu in the form of a Linga. This place is a rare confluence of the peaceful and stable energy of God Vishnu with the angry and disruptive energy of God Shiva.
- Absence of Nandi: The Nandi – God Shiva’s sacred bull – is missing from the entrance. As per the mythological story, he went with Sati to Daksha’s Yajna, so he is not present here. Interestingly, there is a standalone Nandi temple just across the Krishna river in Yedur village, Karnataka. The Nandi statue in this temple faces west towards the Khidrapur temple. Some locals believe that this Nandi temple in Yedur village is connected to the Kopeshwar temple in Khidrapur village.
Architectural Grandeur of Kopeshwar Temple
When I stepped inside the Kopeshwar temple of Khidrapur, I lost all sense of time. For a moment, I forgot about the modern world outside. Was it the centuries-old stones beneath my feet, the magnificent carvings or a divine energy which cannot be described? I don’t know!
Even though I was inside the Kopeshwar temple for 4 hours, I still don’t have the satisfaction of seeing all the figures and carvings in this temple. For me, the Kopeshwar temple was like a huge book, and wherever I looked, I found a story.
Moreover, this temple is built in such a way that it aligns with the sun, the moon and the 8 directions! This temple is a masterclass in sacred geometry and celestial design. It showcases the sculptural craftsmanship and astronomical capabilities of our ancestors.
The Kopeshwar temple can be divided into 4 parts –
- Swarga Mandap – the outer celestial hall
- Sabha Mandap – the inner assembly hall
- Antaral Kaksha – the connecting passage
- Garbhagriha – inner sanctum of the deity
Each part of the temple seamlessly flows into the next with poetic precision.
Swarga Mandap (outer celestial hall)
The Swarga Mandap is the outermost chamber of the Kopeshwar temple in Khidrapur. The moment I stepped inside the Swarga Mandap, I froze in awe. I had seen it before in pictures, and I had also read about it. But nothing really prepares you for this feeling of standing beneath the giant carved open ceiling, with Gods carved all around it, watching over you in silence. It’s not just beautiful, it is out of this world. You will feel like you have entered a space where time stops and divinity breathes through the ancient stone.
Architectural symbolism of Swarga Mandap –
- The circular opening in the ceiling of Swarga Mandap represents the Brahmarandhra in the human brain. This is a specific point on the crown of the head, considered as a gateway for the soul’s connection with the divine. In short, the open ceiling represents a direct connection with the skies above without any blockages. It is designed to frame the sky and connect the temple’s space with the heavens.
- Below this circular window, on a small platform, idols of the 8 Main deities are carved in a circle. They appear to be guarding all 8 directions. Each God is seated on his vehicle with his consort, a Goddess seated behind him. For eg, we can see God Shiva and Goddess Parvati sitting on the Nandi and so on. The exception is God Kartikeya, who is sitting on a peacock, and is carved solo as he is a Brahmchari (celibate). In the background of these 8 Main deities, there are hundreds of smaller carvings of gods, goddesses and divine beings from Hindu mythology. All of them appear to be looking down upon us as we look upwards to see the ceiling above us.
- The Swarga Mandap of the Kopeshwar temple is supported by a total of 48 beautifully sculpted pillars. Among them, 12 pillars form the central circle and support the circular opening in the ceiling. They symbolise the 12 zodiac signs.
Astronomical wonders of the Kopeshwar temple –
- Tripurari Pornima/ Kartik Pornima: For Hindus, the Tripurari Pornima/ Kartik Pornima is the most sacred and spiritually powerful full moon in the entire year. Every year on this day, the full moon aligns perfectly with the open ceiling in the Swarga Mandap. At exactly 12.03 AM, it appears at the centre of this circular opening in the ceiling, and it is truly a sight to behold!
- First rays of the morning sun: Every year from May 4 to May 8, the sunrays fall directly on the Shivalinga inside the Garbhagriha (inner sanctum) early in the morning. This shows that the temple’s architects had an incredible understanding of astronomy and architecture.
Do you like visiting ancient Shiva temples? Check my guide, 108 Shiva temples in Pune, for more such journeys.
Sabha Mandap (inner assembly hall)
The Sabha Mandap of Kopeshwar Temple is supported by 60 beautifully carved pillars. That means, the outer halls – Swarg Mandap + Sabha Mandap have 108 pillars. The entire Kopeshwar temple is supported by a total of 126 beautifully carved pillars. And each one of them tells a story.
The Sabha Mandap of Kopeshwar temple has only 6 intricately carved windows from which a limited amount of light flows inside. There is a carved Ganesha idol at the base of one of the pillars in the Sabha Mandap. It is believed that this is the place from which the task of carving and constructing this massive temple began. The locals also say that to take proper blessings from God Kopeshwara, you must first bow down and take blessings from this particular Ganesha idol. The rest of the pillars in the Sabha Mandap feature stories from Panchtantra, Ramayana, Mahabharata and Hindu mythology. Among these, 4 carved pillars are Kirtimukhi, which means dedicated to the giant named Kirtisura. His face is carved into these pillars, without his body.
Antral Kaksha (connecting vestibule)
The Antaral Kaksha is a narrow vestibule that connects the Sabha Mandap to the Garbhagriha (inner sanctum) of the temple. Once upon a time, two majestic statues of Jay and Vijay stood at the entrance of this chamber. Sadly, only one of them remains intact today. The remains of another mutilated statue can be found outside the temple. You can only imagine how glorious the entrance must have been in ancient times.
The pillars and walls inside the dimly lit Antral Kaksha are full of divine carvings. Among them, you will find the idols of Sapta Matrikas or 7 Divine Mothers, who have the powers of creation and destruction of the universe. They are Brahmani, Maheshwari, Kaumari, Vaishnavi, Varahi, Indrani and Chamunda. They represent different types of energies and add another layer of depth to the temple’s symbolic architecture.
Do you like visiting ancient Shiva temples? Check my guide, 108 Shiva temples in Pune, for more such journeys.
Garbhagriha (inner sanctum)
At the heart of the temple, two strong, powerful and divine energies of the universe merge together – God Shiva and God Vishnu. As you enter the Garbhagriha (inner sanctum/ innermost chamber) of the Kopeshwar temple, you will feel this mixed divine energy. On the floor, there are two ancient Lingas right next to each other. The Pujari (local priest) will show you which one is the Kopeshwara – Shiva Linga and which one is the Dhopeshwara – Vishnu Linga. This is the only temple in India where you get to witness this rare phenomenon.
Gajapatta around the Kopeshwar Temple
After seeing everything inside the Kopeshwar temple, you might think that this temple is done. But no! When you step outside the temple, you are greeted with an entirely new world of wonders. The outer walls of the Kopeshwar temple are not just beautifully designed; they are alive with ancient stories.
- One of the most stunning features of the Kopeshwar Temple is the Gajapatta, or elephant frieze, that runs along the base of the entire temple. There are 96 elephants carved in a continuous belt around the temple, forming its foundation. It is a symbolic gesture representing strength, stability, and unwavering support. On top of each elephant sits a meditating God, carved in serene, composed postures. It is a visual representation of divine energy that rests upon the strength of nature and earth.
- Above the Gajapatta, the carvings rise upward in layers, like chapters of a visual scripture – featuring gods, goddesses, dancers, sages, celestial beings, and scenes from mythology, all etched in intricate detail. These carvings reach all the way up to the shikhara (pinnacle). Many of the higher figurines are so high up, they’re almost impossible to see with the naked eye. And yet, the sculptors carved them with the same devotion and precision.
- One particular sculpture caught my attention among this sea of carvings and divine artistry. Hidden in plain sight was the powerful and rare Harihar Roopa of the divine. This is a combination of Vishnu (Hari) and Shiva (Hara) merged into a single idol. It represents the unity of Shaivism and Vaishnavism. If you look closely, you can see – one eye of this idol has a fierce and angry expression, representing God Shiva, and the other eye of this sculpture is filled with compassion and calm, representing God Vishnu. The emotional contrast carved in the stone with precision is so masterful that it leaves you stunned. You can literally feel the presence of both the Gods in one single balanced form in the stone sculpture.
The outer walls of the Kopeshwar Temple are not just decorative – they are an encyclopedia of Sanatan dharma, carved with care, devotion, and unimaginable skill. Every stone tells a story if you know how to pause and listen.
Do you like visiting ancient Shiva temples? Check my guide, 108 Shiva temples in Pune, for more such journeys.
Guides at the Kopeshwar Temple
You’ll find a few local guides inside the Kopeshwar temple. They are often villagers and farmers from Khidrapur who’ve grown up around this ancient site. The stories, history, and symbolism of the Kopeshwar temple have been passed down to them through generations. They speak the local languages, Marathi, Kannada, and Hindi. English-speaking temple guides are hard to find. Hiring a guide will help you understand the deeper meaning behind the carvings and stories hidden in the stones. Also, consider buying the local books available outside the temple. It is a great way to support the local economy and take a small piece of this timeless architecture home with you.
Plan your trip to Kopeshwar Temple, Khidrapur
- Kopeshwar Temple Location:
- Kopeshwar Temple timings: 6 AM to 8 PM every day.
- Best time to visit Kopeshwar Temple: Any time of the year is good, but monsoon will be the prettiest. It is generally more crowded on festive days like Shivratri, Shravan Mondays and Tripurari Purnima, so plan your trip accordingly.
- Where to eat: It is best to pack your meals and snacks, as there are no proper hotels in the Khidrapur village. This village is famous for growing bananas, and you will find plenty of banana sellers near the temple. You may get home-cooked Maharashtrian food on request from the villagers. Alternatively, you can visit the nearest village of Kurandwad or Kolhapur city for more food options.
- Parking space and washrooms: Parking space is available in plenty. There are no washrooms near the temple; you may have to visit the homes of the locals living nearby.
- Places to stay: There are no hotels or resorts around the Kopeshwar temple in Khidrapur village. You can find places to stay in Kolhapur city, which is the nearest city to Khidrapur village.
- Nearby attractions: Boating in the Krishna River right in front of the Kopeshwar temple, the Mahalaxmi Temple in Kolhapur.
Note: I visited the Kopeshwar Temple in January 2021. I have written down everything I could remember about this temple, but I still don’t feel satisfied with this blog post. This temple holds a very special place in my heart, as it was the first ancient temple I ever visited, studied, and photographed. It was here that I truly felt the magic and divinity of India’s ancient temples for the first time. Back then, I didn’t have the best camera gear or refined photography skills. The images in this post are from those early days, when I was just starting as a photographer and blogger. I hope and pray that God Kopeshwar invites me again, so I can revisit, capture better photographs, gather deeper insights, and finally update this post to be fully satisfied with my work.
